So, to put it plainly, “This is the BEST THING WE HAVE EVER DONE” while travelling. In this short entry, we will do our best to give you a taste of the ‘Tao’ experience, but we know nothing we describe will do it justice. So, to set it off, picture this: Secluded islands, swimming with turtles (plural), a conch-shell horn to call you back to the boats, coves, and lagoons brimming with exotic tropical fish and schools of flying fish soaring through the sky! It was the stuff of all your secluded island dreams. We cannot recommend Tao Philippines highly enough. So, to save time, just book a tour and give us a crisp high five when you return. But do also feel free to read on.
Day 1
A short tricycle ride saw us to the port early Saturday morning. We had our dry bags packed, our reef shoes, and insect repellent purchased, and our throats parched with a thirst that only adventure could satisfy. The briefing the previous evening had given us the smallest of tastes (a nibble… No! A crumb!) of what was to come, and we were already excited. Our boarding of the boat was met with greetings from the “Lost Boys” (the crew of the expeditions), and a smattering of then-strangers who would later become awesome friends.
That first day was spent exploring the vibrant corals beneath the surface of Palawan’s waters. Sarah, who has dived in the Great Barrier Reef, had not seen better. Tosh, who had not been to the Barrier Reef, was in need of medical attention after his mind was blown. The coral gardens were full of wondrous and unique shapes, displaying electric blues, neon yellows, and all colours in between (I think Ringo wrote arguably the quintessential banger that described this environment best).
We could barely believe our eyes as we arrived at our first camp. Surely places like this didn’t exist! Golden sand gave way to a grassy shoreline dotted with palm trees. Beneath the palm fronds stood bamboo sleeping huts consisting of two sidewalls and thin golden curtains for privacy. Our smiles could not be contained as we plunged into the aqua water and swam to shore – we would soon learn that this would be a daily ritual, as there would be no piers or ports for the remainder of the expedition. (That’s right…you get to dive in and swim to shore every day…attempting your best sexy beach walk as you emerge from the waves. Tosh looked more like a sand-crab that had been rolled around in a storm surge.)
Over an open-flame grill, our superb chef prepared freshly caught fish for our first evening meal. But this was only part of the feast in store for us; papaya salad, spring rolls, fresh stir-fried okra and beans, ‘Filipino Power’ (rice), and incredibly delicious fresh fish comprised the rest of the delicious smorgasbord. We ate like kings that first night. Little did we know, our royal feasts would be a morning, lunch, and nightly occurrence.
Day 2
As we woke up (still coming to terms with this insanely beautiful scenery), Jib-Jib, our expedition leader, had met up with some local boys who had come to shore to show us what they had caught the night before: massive snapper, jackfish, and some squid. After a delicious breakfast, we swam back to the boat and took off once more to seek new snorkelling sites and gorgeous skies. Along the way, we got to know our fellow travellers a little more. Each of us was just as enamoured and gobsmacked by the beauty and quality of the tour. A common point of discussion was, “How did you find out about this tour?” and the classic “Where are you from?”. Between word of mouth, YouTube vlogs, and a couple of repeat attendees, Tao runs exclusively on the quality of its reputation (which is very well deserved). The tour also attracted a wonderfully diverse group of nationalities and ages (mid-20s to 60s); Aussies, Americans, English, Dutch, Spanish, German, Swiss, Uruguayans, and French. Although Palawan provided great scenery, it was as much, if not more, the meeting of our fellow travellers that made the experience truly remarkable and the reason we will treasure the experience.
On the second day (we were sailing from Coron to El Nido), we sailed the first passage. This took us around 3 hours after which we made it to our second island where we spent the night. After we set up camp and enjoyed our dinner, a friendly Beer Pong of Nations took place, with Australia taking the title. We retired to our bamboo huts, all facing the glorious sunset, which made for a fantastic end to yet another glorious day.
Day 3
Day 3 started with Sarah giving thanks to the Sun Gods. After which, we got to have breakfast: porridge with caramelised banana and fruit served in a coconut. Now, I’m not sure if you’ve had porridge in a coconut, but I can tell you, from personal experience, there is no better vessel for porridge. Bowls, goblets, plates, or pots—nothing suits porridge better. You might have lost your love for the humble oatmeal, perhaps even scorn it. I put to you that you should give it another try… but this time, put it in a fresh coconut, preferably one that has just been lopped from a coconut tree.
We then once more…swam back to our boat and set off. Now, I think we can all agree that if every now and then, to get to work or start your daily activities, you had to hoist your bag and swim to a boat in pristine aquamarine water, it would provide that ‘Je ne sais quoi’ that is otherwise missing as you’re sitting on the M1 because someone decided to slip into that godforsaken far right lane and subsequently nose-dived into a construction ditch because they thought they ‘had discovered some extra-sneaky-special lane’ and had now caused a second jam for the city-bound traffic from Richmond back to Berwick.
After yet another day of aquatic adventures, we arrived at Tao Farm; the heart of the Tao Philippines foundation. This was the ‘luxury’ resort of all the Tao base camps, and not a more idyllic site could there be. Bamboo bridges and winding paths connected the various spaces of the farm: hut camps, bar, kitchens, and the impressive community centre. This was where we encountered yet another surprise: a 6-course degustation dinner prepared by another of Tao’s most excellent chefs. We had fresh soup made from all parts of the coconut, pork that was so succulent, and cake from cocoa that had been grown in Palawan. Frankly, it was insane.
After our delicious dinner, Sarah snuck off to enjoy a massage. Tosh? He snuck off to the bar for some Jenga.
Day 4
We started the day with a brief meeting in the Tao Communal Centre. We learned about the methods and philosophy of the Tao experience. The people who work there are trained in the most remarkable ways. The chefs are trained externally and return to work. This gives them the opportunity to work abroad, either within the Philippines or overseas, but they are always welcome to return to Tao. The ‘Lost Boys’ are all trained lifeguards. (We saw their training regime… it is hardcore). Women are trained as masseuses and in other handicrafts to help them provide an alternate income. All the islands you visit are supported by Tao, including providing some medical care for those quite remote communities. Tosh was also distracted by the building that hosted the meeting. It was a complete bamboo structure. The structure, like the huts we stayed in, did not use any nails or screws. It was almost exclusively made from bamboo that had been bent and bound in remarkable ways to make for a typhoon-proof, practical, and beautiful building. Seeing is believing.
We then left our little island paradise and walked onto our next boat. On the 6-day voyage, you change boats halfway through. We were now going to be spending our time on the traditional Filipino sailboat. This was another wonderful experience. The sailboat introduced our most favourite crew member, Solo. Solo, the Jack Russell puppy who was born to sail.
The highlight of Day 4 was most definitely the base camp for the night… and the epic fight to claim the best hut! You see, each day we had chosen our huts based on a first-come, first-served basis. Want the best hut? Then arrive on shore first! Sarah had been observing this pattern from the very first evening… biding her time… waiting for her moment to strike. The moment came as we anchored on that fateful fourth evening. Sheer limestone cliffs rose above us, and nestled at the bottom of the cliff face was the base camp. Scanning the camp, Sarah’s eyes locked on the highest hut perched upon the cliff. It would have the most perfect view of the bay and the cliffs: she simply had to have it! Not 30 seconds after the anchor was down, Tosh and Sarah dove into the waves. Out of breath, but victorious in their quest to reach the shore first, the waterlogged duo scrambled up the cliff to claim their prize. And what a prize it was!
Day 5 & 6
The fifth day gifted us with several incredible wildlife encounters. Neither of us had seen a cuttlefish before, and we were both blown away by the sheer size of the creature. Close to a metre in length, this majestic animal lurked under a large rock… until one of the Lost Boys free-dived down with a speargun. The spear missed, and we were again shocked by the speed and grace with which this creature swam away, leaving a haze of ink behind it. Now, the cuttlefish was impressive, but the turtles… yes, plural… were the highlight. Our final base camp was within a hidden secluded lagoon which we had to swim to from our boat. Upon entering the lagoon, we heard another passenger from the boat yell ‘Turtle!’. We immediately slapped on the snorkels, and there beneath the waves was our flippered friend just gliding under the water. In total, three turtles were swimming around in the lagoon.
After yet another wonderful dinner and a well-deserved toast dedicated to the amazing crew and incredible adventure, we headed back down to the beach for a glorious bonfire.
Just when we thought the Lost Boys had no more surprises in store, Jib Jib, our amazing expedition leader, showed off his skills with fire poi! How he wasn’t covered in burns by the end, we have no idea… probably something to do with talent.
The final day held a mixture of emotions. Elation at the incredible experience we had just had, sadness that it was coming to an end, gratefulness for the new friendships we had kindled… and relief that we were finally going to experience our first proper shower in 6 days! There were lots of hugs as we disembarked at El Nido… but we left with a hope that we would someday meet again.
Each day held different surprises, new experiences, and unique moments of awe. To choose a favourite day or moment would simply be impossible. Paradise does exist. You just need to go and ask Tao Philippines to take you there.
2 Responses
This sounds just so incredibly surreal! Your voices both come through so strongly in your writing – Jem and I like to guess at who might have written or inspired different sections. Thank you for including so much detail about your adventures.
(Also, Sarah, you absolutely have not peaked at 10 days in….. So much of your adventures are still ahead ❤️)
As always late to the party … and what a party this looks like it’s going to be. Thanks for allowing us to join you. My bucket list has its first entry.